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Marine Autopilot

Choosing · 6 minute read

Autopilots for trailer sailers

Tiller pilots, power and mounting for Australian trailer-sailers: what works on a swing-keel boat in the Gippsland Lakes, Moreton Bay or the SA gulfs.

Edited by Gabriel MachuretUpdated Editorial method

A trailer-sailer is one of the easiest boats in Australia to fit an autopilot to and one of the easiest to get wrong. Easy, because a tiller pilot bolts on in an afternoon for a few hundred dollars and steers a 6 metre boat beautifully. Wrong, because these boats are light, lively and short of battery, and a pilot sized for flat water gives up the moment a short chop gets under the transom.

The good news is that the choice is narrow. For almost every trailer-sailer the answer is a tiller pilot: a Raymarine ST1000+ or ST2000+, a Simrad TP22 or TP32, or a more rugged unit such as a Pelagic if you sail hard and want serviceability. The decisions that actually matter are mounting geometry, power supply, and whether you will take the unit off for towing.

Key facts

Usual answer
A tiller pilot, mounted to a cockpit socket and pushpin
Displacement
Most trailer-sailers sit well inside tiller pilot limits
Typical draw
0.5 to 1 A average, with peaks several times that
Battery
One 80 to 100 Ah battery is the common constraint
Wind steering
Needs a wind instrument feeding the pilot, not just a masthead fly
Towing
Remove the ram and stow it inside the cabin

Why a tiller pilot is the right shape for these boats

Trailer-sailers are light, mostly tiller steered, and have a rudder that is easy to reach from the cockpit. A tiller pilot pushes directly on the tiller with a linear ram, needs no rudder reference sensor, draws little power and can be lifted off in ten seconds. Nothing about a below-deck system makes sense on a boat you put on a trailer.

Sizing is straightforward: look at the manufacturer's maximum displacement, compare it with your boat loaded for a weekend rather than dry on the trailer, and pick the model that has margin. On a 5 to 6 metre boat the smaller unit is usually plenty. On a 7 to 8 metre trailer-sailer carrying a family, gear and water, go up a size. Confirm the current figures with a dealer, since model limits change between generations.

Swing keels, centreboards and steering balance

A swing keel or centreboard changes the boat's balance depending on how far it is down, and the autopilot feels every bit of it. Board fully down, the boat tracks and the pilot has little to do. Board half up in shallow water, the centre of lateral resistance moves aft, weather helm changes, and the pilot starts hunting because it is chasing a boat that no longer holds a line.

The fix is trim, not tuning. Get the board where it belongs, ease the mainsheet or put in a reef before the boat develops heavy weather helm, and the pilot settles. A trailer-sailer carrying fifteen degrees of rudder to hold a course will eat battery and wear the ram whatever the settings say.

Mounting: the socket, the pin and the geometry

Tiller pilots want a specific geometry: the ram parallel to the deck, the pushrod at the manufacturer's distance from the rudder stock, and the socket at the height that keeps everything level when the tiller is amidships. Getting that distance wrong changes how many degrees of rudder each centimetre of ram travel produces, which is the most common cause of a pilot that seems weak or twitchy on a small boat.

Most trailer-sailers need a small pad or bracket to carry the cockpit socket, because the side deck is thin. Back the fitting with a plywood or aluminium plate inside the locker. The loads are modest until the day they are not, and a socket that pulls out of the deck in a gust takes a chunk of the boat with it.

  • Measure the manufacturer's pushrod distance from the rudder stock and mark the tiller
  • Back the deck socket with a plate; do not rely on the skin alone
  • Mount the ram so it sits level with the tiller amidships
  • Check the ram clears the mainsheet, traveller and the helmsman's knees
  • Fit a waterproof power socket near the ram, fused close to the battery
  • Paint or engrave alignment marks so reassembly is identical every time

Power on a boat with one small battery

The constraint on most trailer-sailers is not the pilot, it is the single 80 to 100 amp hour battery that also runs the nav lights, the VHF, the depth sounder and someone's phone charger. A tiller pilot averaging 0.7 amps is around 17 amp hours a day, which is fine for a day sail and marginal for a long weekend on a lake with no shore power.

A 50 to 100 watt solar panel changes the picture completely, and on a trailer-sailer it is easy to mount one flat on the cabin top or clip a portable panel to the pushpit. Most owners find one panel covers the pilot and the instruments in Queensland or South Australia and just about keeps up in a Victorian winter.

Wire the pilot properly even though it is small. Use a dedicated fused feed in adequate cable, keep the run short, and use a marine-grade waterproof plug rather than a cigarette-lighter socket that corrodes and drops voltage under the pilot's peak current. Voltage sag is the reason many small pilots feel gutless.

The cigarette socket is the usual culprit

If a tiller pilot suddenly seems weak, stalls in a gust or drops out with an alarm, suspect the connection before the unit. A corroded plug in a 12 volt accessory socket can lose well over a volt under the pilot's peak draw. Fit a proper two-pin waterproof marine plug on adequate cable and most mysterious weakness disappears.

Lakes and estuaries against coastal work

On the Gippsland Lakes, Lake Macquarie or the upper reaches of Moreton Bay the pilot's job is easy: flat water, steady breeze, and long straight legs where the value is simply being able to let go of the tiller to make a sandwich or set the kite. Almost any tiller pilot in good order does that well, and a modest response setting keeps the ram quiet.

The South Australian gulfs are a step up, because Gulf St Vincent and Spencer Gulf can build a short steep chop in an afternoon sea breeze that would not trouble a bigger boat but will have a light trailer-sailer yawing. That is where the extra size and thrust of the larger tiller pilots earns its money.

Coastal hops, say Port Stephens to Broughton Island or a run across Moreton Bay and out the Seaway, are beyond what a trailer-sailer should attempt on the pilot alone. Not because the pilot cannot steer, but because a light boat in an ocean swell needs a helmsman's judgement more often than a heavy one does.

Wind steering with a cheap wind instrument

The best upgrade for a trailer-sailer pilot is not a bigger ram, it is steering. Feed the pilot wind angle from a basic masthead transducer and it will hold a close-hauled course through the shifts far better than a compass heading will, and it will hold a broad reach without rounding up when a gust comes through.

The catch is the interface. Older Raymarine tiller pilots take SeaTalk or NMEA 0183 wind data, which means matching the instrument to the pilot's input rather than buying the cheapest display on the shelf. Newer pilots and instruments talk , which is simpler but means a small backbone with terminators, and that is a fiddle on a boat with no dedicated instrument space.

Removing the unit for towing, and when to skip a pilot entirely

Take the ram off before you tow. Road vibration, dust and the pressure wash at the ramp are harder on a tiller pilot than a season of sailing. Unplug it, lift it off the pin, and stow it in a padded bag in the cabin with the pushrod retracted. Blank the deck socket so it does not fill with water and grit.

And be honest about whether you need one. If you sail a 5 metre boat, always with someone else aboard, on day trips inside a bay, the money is better spent on a decent reefing system. A pilot earns its keep when you sail shorthanded, when legs are long enough to be boring, or when you want your hands free to navigate. On a family day sailer it can sit in the locker all season.

Questions

Frequently asked

Can a tiller pilot handle a 7 metre trailer-sailer?

Comfortably, provided you pick the larger models in the range rather than the smallest. Loaded displacement on a 7 metre trailer-sailer is usually well inside the limit for a Raymarine ST2000+ or a Simrad TP32. Check the current published displacement figure with a dealer, because the ratings differ between generations.

Will an autopilot flatten my battery over a weekend?

A tiller pilot averaging around 0.7 amps uses roughly 17 amp hours a day, which a single 80 to 100 Ah battery will carry for a weekend if the fridge and lights are modest. Add a 50 to 100 watt solar panel and the problem essentially disappears in most Australian conditions. Wire the pilot on its own fused feed so a flat house load cannot take the steering with it.

Do I need a rudder reference sensor on a tiller pilot?

No. A tiller pilot knows its own ram position, so it infers rudder angle without a separate feedback unit. Rudder reference transducers belong to below-deck systems where the drive is remote from the control computer.

Should I buy secondhand for a trailer-sailer?

Often yes, because tiller pilots are simple and plentiful on the used market in Australia. Test it under load before you hand over money, listen for a rough or noisy drive, and check the pushrod for pitting and the case seals for perishing. Budget for the possibility that a belt or motor brushes are due.

Is it worth fitting wind mode on a small boat?

It is if you cruise shifty estuaries or sail shorthanded, because holding an apparent wind angle keeps the sails drawing through the shifts without constant adjustment. On a lake with a steady sea breeze, compass mode is perfectly adequate and much simpler. Wind mode needs a wind transducer wired to the pilot in a protocol it understands.

Practise autopilot operation with an instructor

Habits are learned at the helm with someone watching. The training section explains what a good instructor covers and where to find one in your state.